Starting elevation: 9,000 feet, Pass elevation: 11,331 feet
Round-trip distance: 13.8 miles, Trail conditions: Deep snow
Weather: Clear and warm all morning with afternoon rain

Route: Colorado River Trailhead. La Poudre Pass Trail to Lulu City Site,
then to the Grand Ditch at Ditch Camp, and north to Thunder Pass
When Trail Ridge Road opened across the Continental Divide on May 23, the Memorial Day Weekend became the perfect opportunity to attempt this hike. I was accompanied by the exciting combination of summer weather and winter trail conditions. It was a nearly perfect day for this hike, and the spectacular scenery at the pass made all the hard work unquestionably worthwhile.

I began hiking from the trailhead about 6:30 AM, staying true to the day hiker code of starting early. There are many practical reasons for starting a hike this early, including vacant roads and parking lots, as well as limited exposure to afternoon thunderstorms on the trail. My inspiration for starting this early was also personal, as I prefer the solitude that can be found early in the day. While over 3 million people visit this national park each year, these visitors mostly congregate along Trail Ridge Road, Bear Lake Road, Moraine Park, and other popular areas. Despite all these visitors, most trails in the park remain relatively uncrowded, particularly any time other than midday. Although I must happily share this wonderful park with so many others during summer visits, I do prefer having peace on the trail.

So, as I hiked north on this clear, crisp morning, I enjoyed the silence that can often be found this time of day. It is a deeply rewarding experience to pass in to a mountain clearing with a magnificent view, and to be able to reflect on the sheer beauty of this natural place without a hint of civilization to spoil the moment. For over eight hours on this day, I did not encounter any other hikers, and was treated to many of these wonderful moments of solitude. It was a blessing to have this magical place to myself.
About 2.5 miles from the trailhead, I was greeted with open views near the ruins of Shipler Cabins. Only a few logs remain from the cabins which date back to the 1870's during the brief mining boom in this area. The beauty of the open area at Shipler Park was especially striking on this clear, cool morning. The trail continued north to the site of Lulu City, another boom town that went bust in the mid-1880's.

< Early morning view from Shipler Cabins area
After crossing the raging Colorado River on a footbridge, I said goodbye to the last of the trail, except for an occasional trail sign struggling through a snowbank. Also struggling to break through the heavy blanket of spring snow was Sawmill Creek, which I now began to follow to the northwest. This led me on a steep ascent of a seemingly endless forested ridge. I struggled through the deep snow and continued toward the Grand Ditch.

Sawmill Creek emerges from a blanket of spring snow >
Trail signs that normally stand four to five feet above ground appeared to be drowning in the sea of snow. Fortunately, cold overnight temperatures had kept the surface of the snow fairly hard, and I was not postholing through the snow most of the time. As I reached the area near the Ditch Camp backcountry campsites, the forest gave way to open areas, and the steep ridge became a relieving level grade.

< Trail sign near the Ditch Camp campsites
After losing myself in snowy forests for hours, a brief reminder of civilization was an odd sight. The trail leads to a maintenance outpost for the water diversion canal of the Grand Ditch. There was no one around at the outpost, although a parked SUV, as well as a water-filled wheelbarrow serving as a refrigerator were clues that the site was currently in use. The site is primitive, but I would guess the solitude of working here is worth the sacrifice.

< Service Road for the Grand Ditch canal
After crossing the Grand Ditch on the trail's footbridge, I passed the trail sign pointing the way to Thunder Pass. I followed the snow-covered path of the summer trail through the trees, eventually leading to this open area. In summer, this meadowy area at the foot of Box Canyon is undoubtedly a fantastic place for wildflowers. I was more than willing to settle for this great view of Lulu Mountain on this day..

Lulu Mountain from near the Box Canyon campsite >
As I continued toward timberline, the peaks at the north end of the Never Summer Range came in to full view. I was struck by the immense blanket of snow that still covered all but the steepest rock faces. It was hard to believe that a project like the Grand Ditch was even necessary, that water was such a precious commodity, as I was staring at this panorama of deep snowbanks and snowfields. I continued north up steep snowfields to the pass, which remained hidden behind a false horizon of snow and stunted trees.

< Mount Richthofen from just south of Thunder Pass
After a tiring series of heart-pounding snowfield ascents, Thunder Pass finally came in to view, with Park Service boundary markers a very welcome sight. The combination of reaching the distant pass and being suddenly greeted with spectacular new horizons made finally reaching the pass extremely rewarding.
^ Thunder Mountain
Nokhu Crags ^
^ View toward Static Peak
Looking south to Specimen Mountain ^
The high peaks of Mount Richthofen, Static Peak, Thunder Mountain and Nokhu Crags were monumental to the west and north of the pass. I watched as clouds built up in passing over these high peaks, taking pictures and enjoying a snack at this beautiful destination. After a brief stop, it was time to return and head south toward the trailhead.
I completed the hike to the Colorado River Trailhead by the same route, following Sawmill Creek down from Grand Ditch. Soon, rain began to fall as I reached the meadows near the site of Lulu City. It was a long, tiring hike with a lot of postholing as the snow became soft on this warm day. About one mile from the trailhead, after over eight hours of hiking, I encountered the first people I had seen all day. The man I spoke with was a Colorado native who said he had never seen the Colorado River running so full.

Just under 4 hours after turning back from Thunder Pass, I was sitting at the trailhead, wringing water out of my socks and looking back on another spiritual experience in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Click HERE to link to the Hike Profile for Thunder Pass
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